FAQ

FAQs

Questions About Jewelry and Silverware

Q: What kind of jewelry do you buy?
A: We buy all gold jewelry. This includes rings, bracelets, pendants, earrings, watches & dental gold. We buy silver jewelry marked “sterling” or “925”.

Q: How do you determine the fineness of my jewelry?
A: We determine fitness by visual inspection and non-destructive testing using special acids to determine exact purity.

Q: What kind of silverware do you buy?
A: We buy all silverware and silver service items as long as they are marked “sterling” or “925.”

Q: I have a silver item that is not jewelry or tableware. Would you buy it?
A: Yes. We buy anything silver including coins containing silver dated 1964 and earlier. We have the ability to tests for exact metal content.

Q: Do you buy diamonds?
A: Yes. Normally we buy jewelry for its gold content and not the accompanying gem stones. However, if you have a diamond (or other precious gems) that meets certain specifications and has a certification we will be happy to inspect it for a possible offer. If you have a diamond or gem that you want to keep we would be happy to safely remove it from a setting you wish to sell and return it back to you.

Questions About Coins

Q: Do you buy silver dollars?
A: Yes. We buy both Morgan and Peace silver dollars. Silver dollars are both historic and very popular. Starting in 1878, the U.S. Mint produced millions of them. Many were never used and stored in Treasury vaults. This explains why so many can be found in brand new condition. What most people do not realize is that these magnificent coins circulated up until the mid 1960’s. Almost every family has an accumulation of silver dollars and we buy them for their 90% silver content and popularity among collectors.

Q: Do you buy used pennies?
A: Yes. We buy Indian Head Cents and Lincoln Wheat Cents dated 1958 and prior.

Q: How can I tell Wheat Cents from Memorial Cents?
A: Wheat Cents have two wheat stalks on either side of the reverse and the words “ONE CENT” between them. Lincoln Memorial Cents have the image of the Lincoln Memorial on the reverse.

Q: I have a 1943 Lincoln Cent that looks like it is made of silver. What is it worth?
A: The silver look of your 1943 Lincoln Cent comes from a zinc coating that was applied to a steel planchet. In 1943 copper was in short supply and needed for the war effort so the U.S. Mint used steel instead. Unless it is in new condition, your 1943 is worth around 10-15 cents. 1943 was the only year the steel cent was made.

Q: Do you buy used nickels?
A: We buy all nickels (Buffalo, “V” nickel, Shield) dated 1938 and earlier.

Q: What about Jefferson nickels? Do you buy them too?
A: Most Jefferson nickels from 1959 and earlier are worth 10-15 cents. However, wartime nickels dated 1942 through 1945 are more valuable due to their 35% silver content. You can identify these coins by examining the reverse. They have either a “P”, “D”, or “S” above Monticello. We buy all such “war” nickels.

Q: I have circulated dimes, quarters and half dollars dated 1964 and earlier that are 90% silver. How do I prepare them to be appraised?
A: Circulated silver coins dated 1964 and earlier are 90% silver by content. While it is always helpful to have them organized by denomination it is not necessary to do that. Simply bring them in together and we’ll be happy to organize and segregate them. The value of these coins is determined by the current spot price of silver and not by any collector premium normally assigned to other coins.

Q: Do you buy JFK Half Dollars?
A: 1964 JFK half dollars are 90% silver and are counted with your other dimes, quarters and halves. JFK halves from 1965 through 1970 are only 40% silver and are worth less. Separate these from your other coins before coming to our store. Kennedy halves dated 1971 and later are worth their face value.

Q: How much will I get for my circulated 90%/40% silver coins?
A: The amount we pay is based on the prevailing silver spot price at the time of transaction and the total dollar face amount of your coins. Please call us for a price quote as market prices constantly change.

Q: Should I make an itemized list of my coins?
A: No. Making a list is really unnecessary. In performing your appraisal we organize your coins consistent with our dealer pricelists and make the itemized list for you.

Q: Do you buy U.S. Proof and Uncirculated Sets?
A: Yes. We buy these U.S. Mint products.

Q: I have coin sets by date and mint-mark in albums. Can I sell these?
A: Yes. We are very interested in buying coins in albums. Each series has just a handful of dates and mintmarks in which the bulk of its value is often found. These are the key or rare coins. If your book is complete with no missing coins your set can be very valuable. If you are missing just a few coins chances are you are missing the key dates as they are difficult to find and are the most expensive to buy. In this case, an incomplete album containing mostly circulated coins has less value. In uncirculated condition even common silver coins will have good value.

Q: If I call for a price over the phone, under what circumstances could I receive a different amount when I come in to sell my coins?
A: The value of common circulated silver dimes, quarters, and half dollars rises and falls with the price of silver. We do our best to explain this when we offer a phone quote and expressly fix the quote to a given spot price plus or minus. However, if the silver price moves significantly up or down you would receive the prevailing price on the day and time you sell.

Q: Are there other times when I could receive a different amount from your phone quote?
A: Yes. We handle many calls each day from people who want to know what their coins are worth. Other than coin collectors who study and learn about coins most people are unfamiliar with coin terminology and do not know how coins are graded. When you call we understand you are doing your best to describe your coins to us. However, more often than not, we must make an educated guess as to what kind of coin you may have and its general condition. For instance, we will ask if your coin looks “used” or “brand new” as a way to judge its wear. Even so, we try to offer you a range of values that best fit your description. However, our phone estimate can only be as good as your description permits. This is why we recommend an in-store appraisal. With it you receive the most accurate estimate of your collection’s value.

Q: What else could affect how much I receive for my coins?
A. Although difficult to detect by anyone other than a trained numismatist, a coin that has been cleaned, polished, or damaged can lose signficant value. Imagine buying a brand new car and then cleaning the body with a coarse steel wool pad. It would ruin the finish not to mention your car’s value. This applies to coins as well. Simply put, collectors prefer original and authentically aged coins. Reduced demand for lesser coins results in much lower prices.

Q: I’ve heard that counterfeit coins exist. How can I be assured that my coins are real?
A. For the most part, only the rare dates or key coins of each series have been counterfeited. In the past unscrupulous individuals would add mintmarks to plain examples in order to make them look like the more expensive key date versions. Examples are the 1916-D Mercury Dime, 1932-S and 1932-D Washington Quarters and the 1909-S VDB Lincoln Cent. Most people do not have the ability to identify an altered coin let alone a complete counterfeit. Although you may be tempted, avoid any person or business attempting to sell “rare date” coins at “bargain prices”. Chances are high that these coins are fakes. If you have any coins that you believe might be valuable bring them to us for verification.

Q: Do you buy foreign coins?
A: Yes. We are interested in purchasing all kinds of foreign coins and currency.